DIY FYI

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Archive for June, 2011

Fitting cat spikes

If there’s a problem, you’ll be sure that someone has already developed a solution.

We have a problem with a cat - our cat - he jumps on our flat roof from the fence at the side of our house. He leaps on the fence then hops on the roof and meows at the bedroom window to be let in - usually at 4:30 in the morning. As you may realise, this is not particularly endearing, nor does it want me to shower the feline with praise for being so resourceful. So I had a look on the internet for a solution.

Cat spikes - Yes, they exist. They are a strip of plastic with pre-molded spikes. They can be fitted to fence tops to stop cats walking along a fence. The manufacturer of the product says they won’t hurt the cat and simply act as a deterrent. I ordered some.

When the postman delivered them I could see why they act as a deterrent. One false move when trying to negotiate the unforgiving spikes and the le chat noir would be neutered quicker than you could say ‘lopabollocoff’. Joking apart they did seem a little cruel, so we fitted them.

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  • Refelting sheds

    Shed felt only usually lasts a few years before it needs to be replaced. But you don’t have to worry if you’ve never done it before as it’s really easy.

    The old shed felt should be removed and any timber roofing that’s damp should always be replaced before refelting. Start at the lower roof level and pull the sheet across the roof. Cut to size and tack in place using clout nails around the edge of the felt. Do the same on the other side of the roof and finally add the apex piece of felt, making sure the felt overlaps the first two pieces of felt you have fitted, so no water can penetrate the surface. If needed you can always apply bitumen or gutter sealer to the edges to make sure no water can get in and your shed will be as good as new for another few years.

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  • Laser levels and sloping mirrors

    Some of the simplest DIY tasks are for some reason the hardest. Take hanging a mirror for example. Once you have to drill numerous holes in the wall at the same height just about any scenario is possible. From drilling into a water pipe to your mirror resembling a ski jump.

    It’s when you have to drill multiple holes in a wall at the same height that most problems occur. And most problems are cause by people relying on the fact that their room and walls are square - they aren’t. It’s no good measuring from the ceiling or floor to a point on the wall and repeating this to establish another a point at a similar height, the holes invariably won’t be in line and you will have a sloping mirror or picture.

    The right way to do this is to drill one hole at a time and then use a string line and a spirit level to establish any further holes you need to drill, that is unless you have a fancy laser level that projects a straight edge on the wall for you.

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  • Fitting a hanging basket bracket

    The hanging basket displays at some garden centres are simply outstanding at this time of year. So for those of you who have taken the plunge and been enticed by the flowery lure we though we’d give you some tips on fitting a hanging basket bracket.
    Step 1
    It’s amazing how many hanging brackets we see that are installed upside down. The bracket should always be installed with its supporting hook uppermost.
    Step 2
    Mark the bracket holes on the wall using a permanent market pen.
    Step 3
    using an electric drill on the hammer function and a masonry drill bit, drill the holes for the screws.
    Step 4
    Fit suitable wall plugs in the holes.
    Step 5
    Screw the bracket into position with the screws provided.
    Step 6
    Hang the bracket on the hook.

    Hey presto, a beautiful hanging basket in double quick time.

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  • Topping up your combi-boiler

    If you have a new combination boiler you theroretically won’t have to top up the water in the central heating system as it’s kept at a set pressure. However this is not always the case, you sometimes have to top up the water if you have to bleed the radiators due to accmulation of air or if you make any modifications to the system.

    Most combi-boilers have a filling tap where you can connect your cold water supply, you simply have to let water enter the system gradually until the pressure on the gauge reaches around 1.5 bar. If you let too much water into the system by accident there will usually be an overpressure valve that will release some of the excess water - you want to avoid this if you can. Some boilers have a link between the cold water supply and the water in the system and you simply have to turn a screw to let water in.

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